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50 pages 1 hour read

Stephanie Danler

Sweetbitter

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2016

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Character Analysis

Tess

Content Warning: This guide contains discussion of drug abuse, sex, violence, and mental-health stigmatizations.

Tess is the central character and narrator of Sweetbitter. The story follows her coming-of-age story, recounting her first year in New York City. At age 22, Tess leaves behind the boredom of her hometown in search of adventure. She moves to New York City, where she doesn’t know anybody. Tess appreciates the radical anonymity of living in the city. She doesn’t know what she wants from her life; she doesn’t have goals or ambitions, but she does dream of having significant life experiences. Tess takes a step toward discovering a sense of self when she gets a job as a backwaiter at an exclusive restaurant. Tess is at first exhausted and frustrated by the work but learns how to do her job well. She ends up falling in love with her job because it makes her feel like she’s part of a community, something larger than herself. Tess acutely observes the other employees at the restaurant, looking for signs of who she might aspire to be like. Tess makes friends with people who work at the restaurant but soon loses control of the nights as they bleed into one another. Tess is constantly partying with her new friends. Tess drinks and consumes drugs heavily. Tess also develops a mentor-mentee relationship with Simone, whom she puts on a pedestal. Through Simone’s influence, Tess learns how to appreciate fine dining and wine. Tess’s palate development reflects and parallels the development of her identity. Through truly savoring food and immersing herself in taste, Tess discovers that a world of experience can be found in bite-sized ways.

Tess falls in love with a bartender named Jake, who is close to Simone. Tess projects her desire for inclusion and love onto Jake. They develop a relationship based on sex that is transformative for Tess but also stops her from developing another, more meaningful relationship. Tess feels lonely in the city and sees a reflection of her loneliness in Jake. As she tries to model herself after Simone, she also tries to get Jake to pay more attention to her. But Tess can never be a part of Simone and Jake’s family unit. She learns that she loves them more than they love her. Tess’s breaking point with both Simone and Jake is when she discovers that they’re planning a trip to France together without telling her. Tess feels betrayed by them and decides that their relationship is odd and destructive. She decides not to continue lusting after Jake and seeking Simone’s approval because she doesn’t want that destruction in her own life. Another important breaking point for Tess is when she uses her sexuality to seduce her boss into giving her a promotion at work. Using her body as sexual currency doesn’t get Tess what she wants. Ultimately, she learns that her projection of inclusion at the restaurant is a fallacy and that the real setting of her development should be New York City, not the restaurant. Tess leaves her job at the restaurant not knowing what steps she’ll take next. In this way, the novel ends much like it starts: There is endless possibility and potential for Tess.

The novel is told through Tess’s past-tense, first-person perspective. The narrator Tess is older than the character Tess. Narrator Tess looks back on her first year in New York and analyzes the chaos and confusion of being 22 years old and susceptible to heartbreak and destructive influences.

Simone

Simone is 37 years old and has worked at the restaurant for years. She is a sophisticated and knowledgeable woman who wields enormous influence at the restaurant. She is well-liked by her regular customers, and her time working at the restaurant gives her some power. Simone is put on a pedestal by Tess, who wants to model herself after her. Simone is a lover of literature, Europe, culture, and fine wine. She has endless stores of knowledge and experience that sets her apart from other people. But Simone is also more complicated than Tess wants to admit. Simone isn’t a server living in the same apartment for decades because she wants to be—she has no other option. Two failed engagements and lost dreams keep Simone devoted to the one setting in which she thrives—the restaurant. Simone has a significant relationship with Jake, whom she helped raise when his mother died.

Simone is like a mother to Jake, but she’s also a friend, a type of big sister, and a codependent companion. She looks after Jake, and Jake looks after her, in a cycle of support that is both integral to their mutual well-being and holding them back from taking new risks. Simone ultimately disappoints Tess. Simone remains true to herself and insists that she did care about Tess. But Simone’s years of experience in the restaurant have taught her that young women like Tess come and go. Simone enjoys her role as a mentor in Tess’s life, but she doesn’t care about Tess enough to include her in her life with Jake. Simone goes from the woman Tess models herself after to the woman Tess doesn’t want to become.

Jake

Jake is a bartender at the restaurant. He is characterized through his beauty. Tess is only one of many people who desire Jake. He is also aloof and mysterious, which adds to his attractiveness. But what seems interesting about Jake’s attitude toward life and love is actually a tendency toward self-destruction. Jake starts a relationship with Tess even though it’s clear she likes him more than he likes her. Jake’s relationship with Tess is about sex, and he is often mean to her. He judges her for her youth and beauty but doesn’t take in criticism about his own lack of meaning in his life. Jake and Simone have a close relationship because Simone helped take care of him when he was a child. This relationship with Simone is integral to his well-being, but it also prevents him from forming long-lasting relationships with other people. This relationship also prevents him from taking new steps in his life. Thus Jake, like Simone, finds himself in a job and life that he hadn’t planned on. Jake ultimately proves everyone who warned Tess against falling in love with him correct. He becomes a destructive influence in Tess’s life.

Howard

Howard is Tess’s boss at the restaurant. He is a cultured and well-educated man who is largely absent, except for the persistent presence of his power. He is able to analyze people. Tess is a little frightened of Howard’s intuition because she is worried about what he might notice about her character and habits. Howard is also an antagonistic character in that he has inappropriate affairs with his young female staff members. He violates professional boundaries, which makes him a constant threat to Tess, who is the type of woman he would try to seduce. Tess ultimately uses her sexual power with Howard in exchange for a promotion to server. Howard promotes her but transfers her to another restaurant within the company. This proves that Howard is loyal to Simone and that Tess having sex with him did not get Tess what she wanted. His character represents the problematic power dynamics between men and young women, particularly in predatory environments in which men can wield their power with impunity.

Sasha, Ariel, and Will

Sasha, Ariel, and Will are backwaiters who work with Tess. They are secondary characters who help develop Tess’s character. Sasha, Will, and Ariel are all unique characters in their own way. They represent the diversity and community found in restaurant work. They rely on one another to survive through difficult shifts and party together. Though they sometimes have conflict within their dynamics, they feed off of one another’s energies, and this fragile community keeps them invested in their stressful work.

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