Sweetbitter

In Part 2, Tess learns the ropes of working in the restaurant and develops as a character, thus emphasizing the theme of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues as it blurs the self with the restaurant environment itself. Further, Danler reveals the behind-the-scenes world of fine-dining establishments and its drama, both interpersonally and within the rush of the job itself. For example, Tess breaks plates, falls down stairs, and struggles to keep up with the rapid demands of the restaurant. However, all of these mistakes help her to learn how to do her job. When she becomes part of the choreography of the restaurant, and therefore the group, it demonstrates that her character has evolved. She learns that the other servers rely on her to do a good job so that their shifts go well: The coworkers are in a symbiotic relationship, depending on each other’s performances in order to make it through the day.

Importantly, Tess learns more about herself in this environment, emphasizing the theme of Self-Discovery. Tess is repeatedly reminded of her low rank at the restaurant: She doesn’t go by “Tess” at the restaurant, revealing how little the servers care about new people in a work environment with high turnover. Eventually, they give her a crude nickname, Fluff, from pornography. Tess goes with it, earning respect from the servers for her tolerance. However, Simone teaches her that by constantly apologizing, Tess creates guilt and further diminishes herself, which makes it easier for others to diminish her. Moreover, the employees of the restaurant speak roughly, further complicating the chaotic, hierarchical environment. Indeed, Danler’s use of dialogue in the restaurant includes many curse words, offensive nicknames, and baiting. Once Tess adopts this language—and passes other small tests—she becomes a part of the group. This adaptation again emphasizes the theme of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues, as Tess’s hard-won integration is representative of the challenge of fitting in, which occurs in small and large ways within all aspects of culture. While Danler focuses on a fine-dining restaurant environment, the experience of learning one’s place in hierarchies is a near-universal theme in bildungsroman (See: Background).

Though there isn’t an obvious antagonist in this coming-of-age story, this section implies that Howard’s presence is a threat, which is representative of the theme of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues. Howard wields power: He can hire and fire at his will. Howard’s predatory behavior, such as an inappropriate relationship with Rebecca that results in her quitting, demonstrates the ease with which people can abuse their power in hierarchical environments. Moreover, Howard’s predatory behavior is enabled by the other servers, who turn against Rebecca. They mock her having an eating disorder and take Howard’s side, rejecting Rebecca’s narrative about abuse in the workplace. In defending Howard, the servers enhance his power and demonstrate a pack mentality that is indicative of a toxic setting. Indeed, in a hierarchical setting, conforming to behavior that supports those with power provides a sense of safety, and gossip with peers strengthens the sense of community, even when that community functions unhealthily. Tess, however, retains her distrust in Howard and feels badly for Rebecca. Tess leans into her instincts when it comes to Howard rather than team up with the other servers against Rebecca. This demonstrates that despite her desire to be part of the group, Tess can still hold on to her own opinions and interpretations, which highlights the theme of Self-Discovery. Though Tess feels unsure of herself and her purpose in the world, her interactions with others show that she is uncovering values of her own.

Social power imbalances also arise between Simone and Tess, furthering the theme of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues. Tess needs a role model and idolizes Simone for her grace, intelligence, and knowledge. Tess feels special when Simone pays attention to her because she sees that Simone is admired. However, when Simone suggests that Tess have a one-on-one conversation with Howard to seek advice, Tess doubts how much Simone cares about her, as she would prefer advice from Simone. Simone’s suggestion that Tess seek advice from Howard also feels predatory or complicit, especially in the context of what happened to Rebecca, as it implies that there is a mutually beneficial understanding between Simone and Howard. The disappointment and doubt that Tess feels captures the theme of Disillusionment and Experience. Moreover, Tess has no concrete ambitions; she is partly drawn to Simone because she is the kind of woman Tess hopes to be. As she begins to peel back Simone’s layers, she experiences disillusion and slowly realizes that she has put Simone on a pedestal, perhaps undeservingly.

Meanwhile, Tess has been partying with the other servers, taking drugs like cocaine to stay up at night and Adderall to stay awake during her day shifts—habits that highlight the themes of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues and Self-Discovery. She is worn down and becoming more like the servers, even moving away from her initial innocence and kindness. For example, when Will tells her he is in love with her, she responds unkindly. Tess does not want to deal with Will’s feelings for her because they put an inconvenient damper on the comradery and friendship that she is building with everyone else. Furthermore, Tess is so attracted to Jake that she believes that any attention from another man in the restaurant will put a wedge between her and Jake.

Importantly, a moment of character development occurs when Tess sees her reflection in the bar window, capturing the theme of Disillusionment and Experience. Tess sees a tense but glittery version of herself in her reflection. The beauty of being glittery juxtaposed with the tension of her jaw emphasizes the title, Sweetbitter—experiences can be both sweet and bitter, glittery and tense. Moreover, the reflection in the mirror serves as a powerful symbol of both physical and emotional reflection: Tess sees an altered, jumbled version of herself, someone she does not quite recognize. This realization represents the halfway point of character growth.

Tess’s desire for Jake is consuming, furthering the themes of Self-Discovery and Disillusionment and Experience. Jake has proven himself to be uninvested in anyone other than Simone. Part of Tess’s attraction to Jake is his standoffish attitude toward Tess—he is only lightly flirtatious when he wants to be. However, their secret kiss and Jake’s subsequent ignoring of Tess, apart from a few small signs, foreshadows an unstable relationship. Moreover, the figs Jake shares are a symbol of seduction, not love, in ancient cultures such as Egypt and Rome. Before Jake kisses Tess, he presses her bruise, foreshadowing that Jake will cause pain. Still, while others warn Tess against getting too close to Jake or Simone, Tess is enchanted with them. In this way, Tess subconsciously believes she is different and capable of being enchanting too. While Tess is drawing close to potentially dangerous and disappointing friends, she is exploring her identity through these mistakes.

Simone and Jake’s backgrounds are known only through rumor, and their closeness stems from growing up as neighbors. However, the duo clearly has secrets. Simone, for example, knows much about Europe, literature, wine, fine dining, and other elevated cultural concepts, and there is a mysterious affect to her knowledge and interests. Rumors about Simone’s past circulate amongst the superficially tight-knit restaurant employees. Despite their masks of their friendships and comradery, the characters largely operate based on hollow values and gossip.

Significantly, Simone shares the backstories of the restaurant’s regulars with Tess, giving her an inside glimpse into the lives and secrets of the wealthy clientele and furthering the theme of The Restaurant Industry and Broader Societal Issues. Danler humanizes Simone and emphasizes the importance of the work, as servers work in both the world of the restaurant and the world of the wealthy, straddling environments. They are expected to serve and provide a sense of belonging and elitism. Because she deals with customers on a regular and sometimes intimate basis, Simone feels like more than just a server. Tess’s job as a backwaiter is mechanical whereas Simone’s job is human, and Tess aspires to move into the latter role.